Credit where it’s due: I started off with this thread, where the tutorial is for UK models (supposedly it’s easier to access the middle hole from there). My Rover is a non-UK model, with steering wheel on the left (I live in Italy after all), so I had to follow a little more steps to clean it, and I thought I would share.
I would like to close this article extending my sincere thanks to the cheerful people at Rover who decided to place an electronic control unit inside a chamber where water flows in, and where a useless drain is placed to get it out.
Until now I have experienced two kinds of water leakage in my Rover 75. One of them is (supposedly) causing a failure of the fuel pump power output, so 99% of the times the fuel pumps (both under bonnet and in tank) receive no power and the car isn’t able to start; this leakage is due to the water piling up in a small “pool” right above the BCU and the internal fusebox, where a rubber drain is supposed to prevent this occurence, but fails to do that if you live someplace where leaves and seeds from the trees fall on your car.
The other drain, I discovered by pure chance. As I said, I investigated the first drain after the pumps failed to start, so I thought the pumps actually failed; I went and checked the in-tank pump, by pulling out the back seat; behold the surprise, there was another quite big pool of water in the recessed space close to the in-tank pump housing cover. I was able to trace the water stains up to the trunk, close to the rear lights; it was difficult to find the cause because everything was mostly dry, but I noticed a slight running water stain.
I generously added silicone to the gasket area, both from outside and inside, and put everything back together, should be pretty much isolated by now. For the sake of it, I did the same treatment for all the accessible gaskets of the silver lining (there are two on both sides).
My no-power-to-fuel-pumps problem is not yet solved though, this car likes to play games, and when I see the pumps are working again, soon after, at the next engine start, they aren’t anymore. At this point, I suspect a faulty wire.
Vibrating noises while I am driving drive me nuts. It’s as simple as that.
I got my Rover 75 less than a year ago, and the excitement of driving an elegant classy car somehow made me ignore at first the abundant rattles I heard everywhere while I drove (especially behing the passenger airbag), yet I reached a point where I literally went mad and occasionally violently hammered everywhere on the fascia hoping to make the noise stop, but also, let’s be honest, to ease my nerves against the bad machine.
I must thank MikeM from the MG-Rover forums for the written tutorial that helped me through the procedure of solving this problem, and inspired me to make this visual anti-rattle guide.
I was laying cables for parking sensors to be used with the Rover 75 ride I got free of charge from my father. Running them from the holes in the bumper to the engine compartment was no big deal, but connecting the main unit under the bonnet to the display in the passenger compartment was a little harder, since I needed to find a way to run it through cleanly enough.
As improvisation goes (and as my father wanted to do himself) you would be tempted to use, somehow, the cable tubes that you see right in the middle of the rear wall of the engine compartment, but that’s gonna be a hard task. On the other side, if you don’t need to run really big cables, you can use a small hole which you can find on the right side (looking toward the engine, and on my car which has the steering wheel on the left of the cockpit) under a plastic grid you have to remove first.
You have to pull out a waterproof rubber neck that’s fitted around another rigid cable passing through there, to free up enough space to actually run your wires through.
Then you have to access to the cockpit side of the hole.
There is some unscrewing to do here
Once you remove the screws, you need to pull the panel out, and if you want a more comfortable working environment, also pull out with a discrete force the front panel where the lights switch is located to free up a larger area.
If you are in a well lit ambient, you should now be able to see the cable probe (or whatever that’s called in english) passing through the hole you just freed
Let the cable(s) pass on the side of the panel you prefer (door side in my case) and then screw the panel back in place, after reinserting the frontal panel under the steering wheel if you pulled it out.